Hublot does not have a lot to explain when it comes to their contribution to modern horology. The Art of Fusion philosophy paved the way for a new mix of luxury and sports features now quite common on watches. The brand also pioneered in unique materials such as carbon and sapphire, and their marketing path, started under the helm of Jean-Claude Diver, can also be considered as innovative and boundaries-pushing.
Since 2010 Hublot also takes serious efforts to grow in the mechanical part of watchmaking. The first in-house Unico calibre was introduced, and since its inception Hublot has taken their usual energy to grow and get established.
Fast forward to 2024 the second generation of the Unico Manufacture chronograph calibre is introduced. Based on the Calibre 1280, it comes in 5 new iterations.
The novelties, split between two Square Bangs and three Big Bangs, share a new automatic chronograph movement with a 72-hour power reserve, silicon escapement and 5 new patents. The patents bring an optimised chronograph experience and focus on gentler winding, a faultless chronograph display, enhanced chronograph performance, greater accuracy and expectional shock resistance. Let’s go through it.
Gentler winding
We all know the sound of the ratchet wheel click when winding a watch. The clicking sound confirms the tooth clicking in, and this operation consumes torque, causes wear and makes noise. Hublot invented a pair of wheels with a unidirectional toothing profile, a configuration they patented and which enable a quite, smoother and more robust winding.
A fautless chronograph display
The new Unico is equipped with a more simple clutch system for the chronograph, to overcome two “defects” that the traditional horizontal clutch has: the jump as it starts and the quivering of the chronograph hands. The openworked dials, such as the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic shown here, makes the unique profile of the wheels visible to the wearer.
Enhanced Performance
The friction needed for the clutches to drive the chronograph hands and minute counter are made more stable and better controlled by the usage of a ceramic ball bearing which pushes the chronograph wheel against a jewel opposite. The friction torque has become more constant and accurate and, as a result, Hublot watchmakers can now adjust the friction torque without disassembling the whole calibre.
Greater accuracy
Hublot introduces a new patented fine-tuning system which extends or reduces the active length of the balance-spring. It’s a system of toothed screws, which in turn drive an index that has zero play, thanks to its elastic geometry that can only be deformed in the engagement axis. As a result the new calibre is easier to fine-tune.
Exceptional shock resistance
Last but not least, Hublot developed a patented innovation which can generate an exceptionally high friction torque on the gear which holds the hands in the correct place. Very high impacts on the watch will have very limited effects to the time display as a result.
The watches may look familiar, but the biggest news this year is on the nitty-gritty of mechanical improvements, patents and evolution. The new Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic and Dark Green ceramic carry 5 new patented innovations that are visible and ready to be admired by the true watch fan.